The Stage Line and the Paso Real
Norman Rozeff
Harlingen Historical Preservation Society
July 2005, updated April 2009

The crossing at the Arroyo Colorado that came to be known as Paso Real has a long history. In 1836 General Jose Urrea entered Texas via this route to confront revolutionaries. The crossing had become established over the years through trail and error and, when found satisfactory, its existence spread by word of mouth. Historically the convenient site was known to travelers moving north and south.

As a prelude to the Mexican War, American forces under General Zachary Taylor moved south from Corpus Christi in March 1846. They eventually encamped about three miles north of the Arroyo Colorado. This arroyo, before water control structures were built in it, was an intermittent- flowing natural stream with Laguna Madre tidal flows pushing salt water 30 miles or more back into it.

Mexican ranchers on the south bank of the arroyo gave notice to the Americans that crossing would be a hostile act. Later, in a ploy to deceive the Americans, bugles were blown along the south bank to give the Americans the impression that the Mexican military had a sizeable force there. This deception did not deter the Americans, but as a precaution Taylor brought some artillery to the north bank. There may have been some Mexican scouting troops in the area, but they had disappeared when Taylor’s forces numbering 3,554 crossed the arroyo at the Paso Real on March 20, 1846 and proceeded southeast to Punte Isabel.

This location then took on the name General Taylor’s Crossing, later shortened to Taylor Crossing. The name Paso Real translates to Royal or King’s Passage. In the Mexican Spanish vernacular paso also means ferry. It was on 2/20/1849 that the Cameron County Court issued a license to Hamlet Ferguson for a ferry at Taylor's Crossing. This is the first known record of such an enterprise.

During the Civil War much activity occurred over the route. There were troops and wagon trains and, of course, cotton being transported. The latter was being transported to the border for its eventual destination, the port of Bagdad, Mexico where it could be exported to Europe without fear of the Federal blockade. The Alice Road was used by the Confederacy until Union action forced the relocation of a trail westward to north of Reynosa. The cotton wagons carried ten bales each and were pulled by ten oxen or six mules.

The first meeting of the Cameron County Commissioners Court was held on September 11, 1848 at Santa Rita, a community on the Rio Grande about 15 miles upriver from Brownsville by boat and 7 to 9 miles by road. At this very first meeting county officers were elected and petitions to operate ferries were considered. The fee for ferry licenses was set at $12.00 a year. John Webb was granted a license to operate a ferry at Brownsville. It crossed from Fort Brown to Matamoras. A second ferry, operated by P. C. Shannon, crossed at Freeport which is the current location of the international railroad bridge. Licenses were also granted to operate ferries between Point Isabel and Brazos Santiago and Point Isabel to Padre Island.

Eight years after Taylor's momentous crossing, Cameron County records document that the commissioners granted, on 5/17/1854, a ferry license for the site to Santiago Gomez, who had petitioned for it. In this meeting of the Cameron County Commission, tariff rates were set at 25 cents per wheel; 6 1/2¢ freight per barrel; sheep, goats, hogs 3¢ each. In 1870, records indicate that Justo Trevino operated the ferry and about a year later, or for certain by 1874, Morgan Barclay did so.

Barclay, who was married to a Latin woman named Benigna, had purchased the first of two tracts of land from Matamoros heirs of Jose Narciso Cavazos. In fact it was Octiviano de la Portilla of Matamoras that sold Barclay a parcel on January 12, 1874. She had come by a great parcel consisting of 4 ½ leagues upon the death of her father Don Calistra de la Portilla. Barclay purchased 5/14^th of a league. This is documented in an agreement among heirs of Don Calistra de la Potilla recorded in Vol. 3, pages 180-195 Cameron county (Vol. 12, page 352 Cameron transcribed to Willacy). Commissioners then granted him a permit to operate the ferry at Paso Real.

Barclay would expand his holding on 7/2/1880 with a purchase from Senera de la Portilla a de Grima and her husband, Pedro Grima. For the sum of $850 Barclay purchased all land on the Arroyo Colorado and stock owned by Calixto Portilla and Guadalupe de la Garza Falcon, mother and father of Senera de la Portilla de Grima. This is recorded "In provincial coin or slick money of this locality, 4 ½ leagues of land (Vol. 3, page 338, transcribed records, Cameron County to Willacy County)."

Francisco Amendaiz enters the picture in1897. One source says that Guadalupe Potilla de la Potilla sold Francisco 11, 470 acres on April 3, 1897 at the aforementioned price or the total being $10,437.70. In any event Manuel Cavazos, son of the original grantee of the land from the King of Spain, passed part of the property to his son-in-law Juan de la Portilla. The land then came down to descendent Guadalupe Portilla de la Potilla. The property had been awarded to Inocencio (also spelled Ynacencio) and Guadalupe Portilla by the District Court of Cameron County in May 1889. The interest to Guadalupe Portilla de la Potilla by last will and testament of Inocencio Portilla, probated in Cameron County, Texas. Share 4 was allotted to Inocencio and Guadalupe Portilla by the District Court and in said Share 4 was contained: one tract of 8,454 acres, including within its limit’s the ranches of "Los Quatizones" and "Boca Chica"; tract 2 of 2,616 acres of land including within its limits the west half of Ranch (Paso Ranch) tract beginning at a point on the Arroyo Colorado south from the crossing called "Paso de las Tavernas" running westward along the bank of the Arroyo Colorado to the old ford and bend called "Capitaneo" to a corner of a surgery (?) for Mrs. Morgan Barclay. By District court in 1889 Mrs. Barclay was awarded 2,845.5 acres of land embracing within its limits the east half of Ranch "Paso Real" (Share 3).

The succession of grantees at the crossing was as follows: On 9/27/55 the Court issues a license for the Taylor's Crossing site to Gomez and Barclay. It is then Morgan Barclay to whom licenses are issued by the Court over a number of years. Records note 1/16/60; 2/18/63 when his temporary "license about to expire and the court being of the opinion that it would promote the public convenience greatly to have said ferry continued."… charge same rates as 22 November 1861 upon his paying sum of $25 and complying with the law regulating and governing ferries; Dec.1865-1879 at the Paso Real or Taylor's Crossing…upon posting of a $1000 bond with the presiding judge and license to be fixed at $5.00 per annum; 2/13/77, Court raises "license to $25 in currency per annum for privilege of running ferry at Taylor's Crossing"; 11/28/70; 11/18/70; 1/6/75; 2/1/77; 1879; and 5/10/80. On 1/19/81 James G. Browne is issued a license for Paso Real, and the following year Morgan Barclay's widow, Benigna Flores de Barclay, is issued one on 2/13/82. Records indicate that licenses were issued to her 1/8/83, 2/11/84, 2/13/89, 2/11/91,1892, and then in her now married name, Mrs. Benigna Flores de Hodges 2/17/93, 1894, 1895-1899, and 1905. Upon the death of her husband Dona Benigna had married one D. W. Hodges. A record for 1899 shows him to be the ferry operator, followed by Mrs. Hodges being granted a permit to operate the ferry for the next three years. Dona Benigna had been widowed again. James G. Browne is issued licenses for the same location 1886, 2/1/91, 1892, 2/17/93 and 1894. It is Mr. Browne who operates a stage line carrying mail back and forth to Corpus Christi. Locked mail pouches are delivered to the stage coach drivers. He is one in a succession of stage operators. In 1854 Francis M. Campbell had stages on call to go to Corpus Christi. Initially the Brownsville to Corpus Christi via Alice trip by stage is a six day one. It was after the Civil War that Thomas Baynon, Richard King's general foreman, operated a stage line between Brownsville and Collins. Finally, in 1899 it is Santiago A. Brown who inaugurates a stage coach service and begins to carry U.S. Mail. All must transit the Paso Real. Travel time had been reduced to 80 hours and later down to 40.

In 1884 the Alice and Brownsville Stage Company commenced operations between the two cities. It was to do so for twenty years until 1904 when the coming of the railroad to the Valley made its operation obsolete. The company ran advertisements in the Brownsville Herald for numerous years. One typical ad read "Alice and Brownsville Stage Company—connecting Alice with San Antonio and Aransas Pass and Mexican National Railways. This line carries U. S. Mail on schedule time of 40 hours. Stage leaves Alice and Brownsville daily at 6 am, Sundays included, and arrives at destination next evening. Round trip tickets $22.50. Children under 12 half fare. Children under 5 free. Adolph Asheim, agent in Brownsville."

Kathryn Turner Carter in her Stagecoach Inns of Texas quotes the account of Ralph C. Schmeling of Brownsville. On a trip from Alice to Brownsville in August 1898 he notes:

According to Dr. J.A. Hockaday of Port Isabel, after leaving Brownsville, stage passengers would experience their first stop at Olmito and the next stop at Las Yescas, now ten miles north of Los Fresnos. At the third stop, Paso Real, there would be a stop-over for meals and at times to lodge the night at the Inn. Tom Lea's book on the King Ranch appears to indicate that Richard King II was born on the stage between Kingsville and Brownsville and that, in a separate incident, Mrs. Henrietta King died while enroute to Brownsville on one of the stages.

Another source lists the various ranches in which the stage stopped on the route north. These included Anaquitas, La Cruz, Mulatos, Ebanitos, San Francisco, Buena Vista, Badaño, Florida, Los Animos, Saltillo and San Ignacio. From these ranches were branch trails to Potrillo Crossing, Arroyo de la Olimas, and Paso de la Piedra. Taking an alternate route it would traverse Jenadito, San Juan, San Pedro, Mulatos, El Sauz, Los Mogotes, El Capote San Luiz, Santa Lucia, San Jose, Sauceda, Tepo, Los Indios, Atrevesada, Parra Ranch and Pano Ancho.

On what became known as the Old Alice Road, south of the Anaquitas Ranch was the Las Yescas Ranch. Here Alfredo Roche Garza operated a commercial store from which travelers could purchase items. His granddaughter was to become the prominent educator and Cameron County Commissioner, Edna Tamayo.

In 1893 the stagecoach line's own schedule read as follows:

TO THE TRAVELERS

Mail Line between Alice, Texas and Brownsville

Leaves Brownsville daily at 6:00 a.m.

Convenience for the passengers as follows:

Lunch at Arroyo 11:30 a.m.

Supper at Campo Verde 8:00 p.m.

Breakfast at Santa Rosa 6:00 a.m.

Lunch at Smith's Station 12:00 a.m.

Arrives at Alice at 6:00 a.m.

Will receive orders and packages at Alice, Hobbes Store: Wright, Agent

In Brownsville at Post Office, Agent A. Asheim

Leaves Alice at 6:00 a.m. daily.

Conveniences for the passengers as follows:

Lunch at Station Los Indios 8:00 p.m.

Supper at Oasis Station 6:30 a.m.

Breakfast at Campo Verde 12:30 p.m.

Lunch at ?

In a location that was once part of the sprawling Armendaiz Ranch, the Paso Real stagecoach stop on the north bank of the Arroyo Colorado was built to service the Alice Stage Coach Line or perhaps an earlier predecessor said to call it the third stop on a route from San Antonio to Brownsville via Banquette. Some say it was built in 1887 while others put it as early as 1860. A plat map of the crossing area was drawn by county surveyor J. J. Cocke on May 29,1884. It does not indicate any building identified as an inn at this time. This would appear to confirm that the 1887 date may be fairly accurate. As is the case with many structures of the time, it may have started out as a modest structure and been added to as time and the need advanced. Some hint that it may have been expanded for the Amendaiz family by a man named Cavazos. It was adjacent to the ferry crossing. The inn ceased functioning in 1904 when the railroad line from Robstown to the Valley was completed. Prior to the railroad it was the receiving point for mail destined for what will be Harlingen, much of it is addressed to, or in care of, Lon C. Hill. For a time Jesus Lopez has a store at Paso Real before moving on to Brownsville.

According to S.P. Rodriguez, once an educator in Harlingen, his father owned and operated the ferry for a time around 1900. It was hand–powered along a cable tether and was said to be fifty-five feet long and thirteen feet wide. The fare was eight cents for a stage or wagon with four horses or mules and four cents for smaller wagons and carts. In this period the inn was said to have a ticket office, general store, post office, and living quarters for the agent and his family. In the earlier days the ferry, called in Spanish a chalan, was more or less a raft pulled across by ropes.

One individual who worked on the ferry operation as a young man was Francisco Perales, Sr. He used to direct the craft by manning the paddle rudder, "at one time taking home about $12 a month between his $3 salary and assorted commissions from the wagons and coaches that crossed the Arroyo." He eventually bought the old ferry "for a song" but closed the business, then mainly transporting cattle for adjacent ranchers, in 1933 when the hurricane damaged the barge.

While the stage line was in operation the small community in the Paso Real area grew. There was a school, several stores, a mission church, large commissary, the two-story Armendaiz headquarters house, a post office, and cemetery to serve ranch families in the neighborhood. the property to his son-in-law Juan de la Portilla. The land then came

The village was designed Arroyo, Texas and was the mail distribution point for north Cameron County. Christian Balduf (also spelled Baldauf), of German heritage, operated the Paso Real Inn store and post office by 1895. Balduf was officially appointed postmaster on August 22, 1887 and served until 12/6/1907. He is said to have purchased the property from Mrs. Hodges on 11/3/1897. The upper floor of the two-storied structure served as an inn for travelers. It was furnished with carved furniture, velvet curtains, and Oriental rugs. The bedrooms, 35 to 50 cents a night depending on size, each had a wash stand, pitcher, bowl, table with four chairs, and braided rug. Meals were cooked outside and served in the rooms. Balduf eventually was to sell his business with "stock of plows, buggy whips, coal oil lamps, grocery, and other dry goods" to Jesus Lopez.

The Inn became the focal point for the community as it offered a site to sing, dance the polka and fandango, drink wine and pulque, and meet the myriad travelers passing through. These include business men, actresses and actors, traders, soldiers, opera singers, bandits, lawmen, and government agents among others.

In the Bandit Era of the second decade of the 20^th century the Paso Real area was open for depredations. As late as 1915-16 the banks of the Arroyo were densely wooded and afforded ample hiding places for those seeking seclusion. In August 1915, Mrs. Hodges, now elderly, bedridden for some nine years, and fearful for her safety after two ranch hands are killed by bandits, another individual killed and a fourth injured, appeals to Santos Lozano of Harlingen to care for her. The Lozano family does so. Upon her death and having no heirs, she wills her ranch to Michaela Lozano, who has been very solicitous of her needs. Thus the Lozanos, a mercantile family, also become ranchers.

Today the highway distance between Brownsville and Alice is about 149 miles. The stage coach took 40 hours to cover that distance. With an overnight stop of 8 to 10 hours, the speed of the coach calculates to approximately five miles per hour. The Paso Real was therefore a likely resting point on the way from Brownsville to Alice. On the reverse route FranciscoYturria’s 85,000 acre Punte del Monte Rancho, straddling Willacy and Kenedy Counties, was an alternative stop on the line.

The Paso Real Community is still marked on some maps. It is reached via FM1420 going north from FM508, west of Rio Hondo. Going from the south levee of the north floodway one goes 3.2 miles then turns east on an unimproved road for 3.9 miles to reach the site of the Paso Real.

Hurricane Beulah in October 1967 placed a huge volume of water into the Arroyo Colorado. As a result the overflowing stream demolished and carried away a portion of the Inn. The property over the years had changed hands several times. From Armendaiz it went to E.D. Richmond and then the Schaleben family. By the decade of the 1970s the Inn on its two acre site had come into the hands of Mrs. Hale O. Schaleben of Edinburg. She made a gift of the property to the Rio Grande Valley Historical Society. After trying to raise funds to restore it in place and even place it into a state park setting, an alternate plan was decided upon. In 1975 the badly deteriorated Paso Real Inn structure was brought to the Rio Grande Valley Museum in Harlingen. Here an extensive restoration commencing in 1976 was made on it. Texas State Technical Institute carpentry students took it on as a project. It was dedicated 11/6/76, an appropriate event for the Nation's Bicentennial Year.